History, at the end of the block
— I picked up my car at the airport, put the hotel’s address into the GPS, and set off on my way into Memphis. I followed her soothing robotic directions. She led me straight to the doors of Memphis’ mental hospital. I stared up at the forbidding facade as she intoned, “You have reached your destination.” I considered checking in, since it seemed so foreordained.
— They have these horse-drawn Cinderella pumpkin coaches that clip-clop around, decked out with lights, fanciful and absurd, totally girlie. One went by and I heard laughter from inside, glanced in and saw a couple, pudgy, she with spritzed bangs, he head to toe in camo, and they were eating cake and laughing. It warmed my heart.
— Stopped by B.B. King’s blues club on my first night here and lucked out. A local band called Memphis Jones was playing, three white boys in rockabilly outfits, chains on their wallets, porkpie hats, the lead guy was wearing spats, they were very fly. A tight rocking trio. They cover songs written by Memphis musicians, and, naturally, that’s a robust group. They played Muddy Waters and Otis Redding and Elvis and Jerry Lee Lewis. The lead guy was a Memphis music historian, basically, and set up each song with a little anecdote about it, told in excited and enthusiastic tones. The place was packed. Everyone sang along to every song. Lead guy said, “People ask us if we have records and I say no, we don’t, and why would we, when you can go out and buy the original? That’s why we do what we do. We encourage you to go home and fire up Amazon, fire up iTunes, and check out these cats who made the best music in the world, right from here.” It was a happy accident, hearing those guys on my first night here.
— The weather has been freezing and gloomy. Just like I like it.
— There are times, when I’ve been walking around, where I am struck by the emptiness of Memphis. I took a long walk today and encountered not ONE SOUL on the damn road. It was eerie, post-apocalyptic.
— Took a road trip into Mississippi, which I loved. I listened to religious stations during my entire drive, with crazy black gospel choirs and preachers shouting fire and brimstone. These people do not mess around. It was so cold that the grass was white with frost.
— I have been spending a lot of time walking up and down the banks of the Mississippi. What a glorious body of water, Memphis crouching right on the shore. It’s reflective, too – wide and moody, sometimes grey, sometimes silver, sometimes green. Again, there’s usually no one else down there when I’m there. Maybe a jogger. Maybe a guy walking his dog. The landscape feels emptied out.
— I’ve been reading and writing a lot. I have barely been online, which has been awesome.
— I bought champagne for New Year’s Eve, and drank a bit of it. Talked to my sister Jean. It was okay. I am not a fan of New Year’s Eve. 2012 has been one of the best years of my life, with a wretched ending, and coming to Memphis has been a way to survive and recover. It was a good choice. I fell asleep at 11 p.m.
— Unlike New York City, there are times here where I look around and cannot tell what decade I am in. Memphis has maintained its character, and you see the old pictures of Memphis in the vibrant hustling 30s, 40s, and 50s, and there are still blocks and moments where you look around and you can see that Memphis. Maybe it’s a bit quieter, but it’s still there. I wrote on Facebook:
Memphis reminds me a bit of Providence, RI in a number of ways. It’s industrial, as most river cities are, and it has a rich cultural history (to say the least). But also: if you look around, the history feels like a living history – the past is not wiped out: the architecture remembers, the way the streets are set up remember. At the same time, there is a vague sense that the past is better than the present – but it’s just a sense, not an overwhelming feeling. I guess this strikes me so strongly because I spend most of my time in NYC where you really have to SQUINT sometimes to see the “old New York”. There are certain neighborhoods (or, more accurately – streets) in New York where the old New York can easily be discerned – certain corners in the West Village, certain areas of lower Manhattan, and Brooklyn. But for the most part, the past is wiped out in New York. That’s not the case in Memphis. You really can walk with ghosts here. The city remembers, you can SEE them almost. Providence has the same gritty quiet memory to it. It’s not quaint or kitsch – it’s not making a fetish of its past – but you can’t escape it. The pictures of Memphis in the 20s, 30s, 40s, are so vibrant, so ALIVE – and there are times, usually when the streets are empty of traffic – where you could almost believe you were “back then”.
— I’ve been spending all of my time by myself, obviously, and it’s okay. I am good at it. I have been here long enough that not every hour needs to be blocked out. I can wing it. Today, I had nothing planned. I woke up, the weather was frigid and wet, threatening snow. I got coffee and took a long walk through empty streets to visit Sun Studio, which I knew would be closed. I had no desire to go through the tour again. I just wanted to see it, and also to see it in its natural habitat, no tourists, off-hours, on a cold grey morning. It was a long walk, and I saw not a soul, and I walked through basically bombed-out blocks, with vacant buildings, beautiful, eerie, and sad. Had my coffee sitting on a bench outside Sun Studio, and just sat there, doing nothing. Then walked back, and stopped off at the Hotel Peabody to check out the ducks, see the Lansky Brothers store, and have a Bloody Mary, and warm up. Chatted with the nice bartender about the best barbecue in town. It was only noon. The whole day had that feeling. Memphis, quiet, reflective, empty.
— Despite the gloom, Memphis has a slightly seedy glamour to it, and strikes me as a far more glamorous place than New York City. Certain neighborhoods in New York still retain the old glamour, and of course New York is impressive and glittering and high-paced and all that. But Memphis, with its gorgeous architecture and thoughtful downtown area with the trolley tracks and the street lamps, is truly glamorous. The glamour of a place that remembers its past, holds onto it a bit desperately, perhaps knows that its best days are back there, but it hasn’t “sold out”. It is a place filled with remembering, and that does make it a bit sad, but that’s where the glamour comes from.
— I had a half-hour long conversation with a lovely pimp in Confederate Park. Only in the South. The pimp was extremely nice and respectful, and I enjoyed talking with him. He didn’t tell me he was a pimp right off the bat, it came out naturally in conversation. He was wearing a tan suit with a slight check in it, and a fashionable winter coat. The conversation started simply with a “Good morning, how are you” and we took it from there. Once I told him my name, he referred to me as “Miss Sheila” with an old-world elegant air.
Here are some of the things the pimp said to me. Much of this was unprompted. I didn’t egg him on, although I clearly was not looking for a way OUT of the conversation. I relaxed into the conversation, hence his voluble monologuing. He was great.
“There is nothin’ in this world, n-o-t-h-i-n-g, like a mohair suit, I am telling you.”
“I am 64 years old and I enjoy every minute of my life. Of course, I’ve been smokin’ weed all day so I’m feelin’ very good.”
Pimp: “You’re beautiful.”
Me: “Back off.”
Pimp: “No, no, I’m off-duty, come on now. Just tellin’ the truth.”
“Women are beautiful in all sizes but there is no reason for a woman to be big as a water buffalo, if you’ll excuse me, Miss Sheila.”
“My mama died at 88. She had dementia, bless her soul. I was more sad when she was in the nursing home than when she died.”
“I would buy a new Cadillac every six months. Only Cadillacs, you know it!”
“You may not believe this from lookin’ at me, but I am half-Irish. Yes, ma’am, I am.”
Me: “You Southerners are not messing around with your Jesus Freak selves.”
Pimp: (roaring with laughter) “THAT IS THE TRUTH, MISS SHEILA.”
“I was a good pimp. I let my women keep they own jewelry if it was heirloom shit. I gave them milk baths. I am telling you.”
“Some good-for-nothin’ burned my damn house down.”
“Beale Street changed the world, Miss Sheila.”
“You’ll have to excuse me but I lost my lower bridge somewhere. They were made of ivory. None of that gold shit, I am telling you.”
“I been all over this world. But when you’re hungry and cold, there is no place like a Southern town. They take you in and feed you.”
“Miss Sheila, let me tell you, if you don’t do what you love in this life, then life is not worth living.”
During my walks around the city, I had been thinking a lot about the glamour of Memphis, its faded grandeur, and empty streets filled with remembering. The pimp was born and raised in Memphis, although he has lived all over the country.
I asked him at one point, “So lemme ask you. What is Memphis really like?”
He replied, emphatically, “Memphis is a no-good dirty town full of redneck crackers.”
— It was a good reminder to not get too sentimental about these things.
Live from Memphis.
Here are the books I read in 2012.
1. My Life with Elvis – by Becky Yancey.
The first book published after Elvis’ death from one of the insiders on his team. She worked in the office at Graceland. The book is extremely positive about Elvis, although honest about the difficulties of working for him. It is horribly written, with no sense of chronology, no segue from paragraph to paragraph, but the overall tone is sincere, and her motives do not appear to be suspect. She felt horrible about the awful things said about Elvis by his turn-coat friends in Elvis: What Happened? (published a month before Elvis passed), and was very upset by Elvis’ death, and wanted to counteract the negativity. She was a teenage girl in Memphis when she met Elvis, who was already the biggest star in the world at that time. She had been invited to the amusement park by a friend, on one of the nights when Elvis would rent out the entire park for himself and his entourage. She rode the roller coaster, seated in a car next to Elvis, and she threw up on him, all over his gorgeous skin-tight silk pants and shirt. He was very nice about it, and concerned for her well-being, and later, he offered her a job. That was Elvis’ thing. You make a good first impression (even if that involves vomiting on his lap) and he needs to co-opt your entire life and corral you in with his team.
2. Me and a Guy Named Elvis: My Lifelong Friendship with Elvis Presley– Jerry Schilling
Jerry Schilling was a Memphis boy, who met Elvis in 1956 (Elvis was a bit older than Schilling). It took some years until their paths crossed again, and then Jerry basically joined the “Memphis Mafia”, and was Elvis’ companion and friend for many years (until the end). He was the one who went with Elvis on the infamous “let’s go meet Nixon and get drug badges” trip. Jerry was a steady and sweet man (still is, it seems) and there was a deep connection between the two men. Jerry eventually felt he had to branch out on his own, he felt that being employed by Elvis was negatively impacting their friendship, and he learned film editing, working his way up the ranks at various studios. Elvis seemed to respect Jerry’s independence. The two were tight. This is a strangely emotional book (Jerry Schilling is a disarmingly open man, it’s apparent in interviews as well), and I am grateful that he wrote it.
3. Untold Gold: The Stories Behind Elvis’s #1 Hits – Ace Collins
Ace Collins tells the stories behind each of Elvis’ #1 Hits. Songwriter, anecdotes about the writing-of, how it came to Elvis’ attention, etc. It’s good.
4. Elvis and Gladys (Southern Icons Series) – Elaine Dundy
One of the best books thus far written about Elvis, and I include Peter Guralnick’s two-volume biography. In many ways I prefer the Dundy, although I disagree with some of her conclusions. This book is meticulously researched and gives some excellent geneology information, especially in terms of the Gladys side the family. Elvis grew up in a matriarchy, that’s for sure, and Dundy has done her research. She theorizes, correctly, that Gladys is not just key to understanding Elvis. Gladys is THE key. Dundy finds Gladys’ old friends, people who knew her in grade school, old colleagues and neighbors, and gives us a fascinating portrait of this hard-working suffering woman, who poured her heart out solely into loving her one surviving child. This book should not be missed, not just for the Gladys stuff, but also for Dundy’s imaginative and empathetic contemplations about what drove Elvis, who he was, and where he was coming from. Superior to Guralnick in that respect. It’s a very Southern book.
5. Lost Highway: Journeys and Arrivals of American Musicians – Peter Guralnick
Not to be missed. A survey of the “lost highways” of American musicians, on the road, in the juke joints, making gold records, a step away from poverty, in most cases. With a distinctive chapter on Elvis Presley, almost just to get him out of the way – as must be done, in order to talk about other artists. Lost Highway provides unforgettable portraits of Charlie Rich and Ernest Tubb, these giants of American culture.
6. Elvis Presley: A Life in Music : The Complete Recording Sessions – Ernst Jorgensen
Essential.
7. Elvis: What Happened?– Red West, Sonny West, Dave Hubler – as told to Australian music writer Scott Dunleavy.
This came out the month before Elvis died. It was “written” by his three former associates (and Red West was his best buddy since high school). It is a treacherous book, mean-spirited, self-serving, and I take every single word with a grain of salt. They were just pissed that Elvis had fired them. It’s a smear campaign, which devastated Elvis when he heard of it. We get a lot of the anecdotes about Elvis that are now famous from here: shooting out the TV, Elvis’ belief in UFOs, stuff like that. It’s written in a breathlessly scandalous style. The whole thing is disheartening. I’d read it before, but had to read it again. This book is far more revealing about the guys who wrote it than it is about Elvis. A petty book.
8. Elvis: My Best Man: Radio Days, Rock ‘n’ Roll Nights, and My Lifelong Friendship with Elvis Presley – George Klein
Another book by one of Elvis’ friends, this one by George Klein, who is still a Memphis DJ and was since he first got out of high school (he and Elvis were in the same class at Humes High). It was music that brought them together, their paths hadn’t really crossed in high school. Klein, like most people who got close to Elvis, went to work for him, but he also maintained his busy DJ career, and Elvis supported him in that. This is another good and positive book about Elvis – honest about his flaws, and how infuriating he could be (“Elvis, I can’t go to Vail on a moment’s notice for a week – I HAVE SHIT TO DO HERE.”), but also kind-hearted, with some very funny stories.
9. Slouching Towards Bethlehem: Essays (FSG Classics) – Joan Didion
I read this collection of essays about once a year. Here are some posts I’ve written about it.
10. A Thousand Lives: The Untold Story of Hope, Deception, and Survival at Jonestown – Julia Scheeres
Harrowing. Scheeres has done her homework, and it shows. Very tough book to get through, though.
11. Then Again – Diane Keaton
A beautiful book. It’s really about mothers and daughters. I found it very emotional. Also, that Keaton is a woman who has never married and never had her own kids (she adopted very late) is also inspirational to me, in a very bittersweet way, but she’s a real role model for me. This isn’t your typical “here is how I became a star” memoir. It’s really about her relationship with her mother, and also – her mother, outside of her relationship with Diane and her kids. (When her mother passed away, Keaton went through her mother’s copious journals, which are works of art in and of themselves.) I loved this book.
12. Is Everyone Hanging Out Without Me? (And Other Concerns) – Mindy Kaling
Hilarious, and also inspiring. I love her journey and I love how radical it is, in terms of her gender and her race. And the book doesn’t even mention these things, or not directly. It’s not about “how I overcame adversity” or “how everyone underestimated me until I proved them wrong”. It’s about a creative girl, living a sort of chaotic life, not really knowing where to put her energies, until she started doing what she wanted to do. And then, things began to fall into place, in a chaotic way that ends up resembling momentum, until here she is, with her own show, and doing awesome. I read somewhere recently, maybe on Twitter, someone referring to Kaling as “smug”. Would you refer to a man in the same position as smug? Or does Kaling’s sheer confidence in herself bother you (the person who made the comment was a male) because she’s a female, AND she’s Indian, and therefore she rocks the boat on all kinds of cultural levels? I don’t mean to be suspicious and that is not normally my bag, but when it comes to dissing women for being “smug”, when really what they are doing is “having it all” and being fabulous and going after their dreams just like men do – I call bullshit. The book is great about not worrying about how other people “do it”, to just do things that interest you, to keep pushing yourself to follow your own interests/obsessions. There is no template. The only thing you have to do is keep moving forward, and create create create.
13. Under the Dome: A Novel– Stephen King
I read this summer. I loved it! One of King’s apocalyptic event novels. With no warning, a dome covers an entire town in Maine, trapping them all in a desperate situation that grabs the world’s headlines. Great characters. King is best with the life-in-a-small-town stuff. I wrote about that here.
14. Blue Nights – Joan Didion
Joan Didion’s latest, and it was so painful to read that I had to finish it as quickly as possible. It was unbearable, is what I am trying to say. She is so unblinkingly clear and austere that she forces me to see things that way too and I basically become Blanche Dubois, yearning for a soft scarf flung over a glaring lightbulb. If you thought Year of Magical Thinking was painful, that’s nothing compared to Blue Nights.
15. Hitch-22: A Memoir – Christopher Hitchens
I had been dying to read this. Waiting for it to come out in paperback and also waiting to be in the mood. Suddenly this summer I got into a Hitchens mood, and I have yet to come out of it. But then, I’m always in a Hitchens mood.
16. Lolita – Vladimir Nabokov
One of those books I never read until now. How is that possible. It is as brilliant as they say (no revelation there – although it certainly is exhilarating to discover something for myself). I also found it so acutely disturbing that I raced to finish it, because it was too much to bear. But the scope of its Americana really struck me (especially since America was not Nabokov’s native land, English not his native tongue), the road-trip aspect to it, the movie magazines and soda fountains and polished grilles of 1950s America, with Humbert Humbert and his captive careening through it … I cried for the final two pages. It’s a tragedy in the classic sense, and one of the great examples of a first-person narration told by an unreliable narrator. You cannot trust anything he says. And until the last two pages, he really dissembles, and hides, and prevaricates. An astonishing book. So glad I finally bit the bullet.
17. Arguably: Essays by Christopher Hitchens – Christopher HItchens
A collection of his essays. I had read most of these before, when they originally came out, in Vanity Fair, or The Nation or Slate. It was fun to re-visit them again.
18. Women Without Men: A Novel of Modern Iran – Shahrnush Parsipur
So controversial when it was first published that the author was imprisoned (what a shock). It was recently made into a movie (which I loved), which sparked my interest in the source material. Written in a sparse fairy-tale style, it has elements of magical realism (touched on in the film, but way more out there in the book), and is a hard-hitting and vicious critique of the position of women in Iran. A short book, but explosive.
19. Love, Poverty and War – Christopher Hitchens
Another collection of essays. I had already read this one when it first came out, and again, most of these essays I had already read, since I’ve been following him as a writer for many years. I love the book reviews collected here, most from The Atlantic. Hitchens encouraged me to take another look at Kipling (what a joy!!), and also to discover Evelyn Waugh for the first time, a huge gap in my reading until a couple of years ago.
20. Opium Season: A Year on the Afghan Frontier– Joel Hafvenstein
A very good book written by a guy who had been hired by one of the aid organizations in Afghanistan whose job is “poppy eradication”, one of the huge hot topics in Afghanistan, and obviously very complicated and controversial. Hafvenstein, like many aid workers, came to Afghanistan with good intentions and he – along with his entire organization – was basically run out of town on a rail. The project was hampered on all sides, and slowed down by kidnappings, murders, and sabotage. A sad book, but very well written, and gives a great look at a situation that made the news at the time.
21. Selected Letters of Rebecca West – Rebecca West
One of my idols. Her letters are almost too good to be true.
22. Gone Girl: A Novel – Gillian Flynn
A novel I resisted because I am a contrarian and if everyone is reading it, I dig my heels in and refuse. I finally caved when my mother told me how good it was. She leant it to me and I read it in a frenzied manic state and could not put it down. I actually went without lunch on the weekend I was reading it because I could not take the time to put the book down and go foraging for food. So good. Great portrait of psychopathy.
23. Rythm Oil: A Journey Through The Music Of The American South – Stanley Booth
Haunting. Booth was basically ‘writer in residence’ for the Rolling Stones, and hails from Memphis (at least his formative years) and this is an incredible book about the musicians in Memphis and the surrounding areas. Man can write. There’s a lot of anger in the book, anger at how Memphis has treated its phenomenal cast of geniuses – many of them died in poverty.
24. Iphigenia in Forest Hills: Anatomy of a Murder Trial – Janet Malcolm
I would read Malcolm’s thoughts about her internet service provider, so compelling do I find her prose. This murder trial held no interest for me, but after reading this slim volume I found myself Googling up a storm. Malcolm is great on the analytical and observational side of complex issues where everyone else appears driven by emotion (she wrote a book on how hard it is to write a book about Sylvia Plath, for example).
25. 11/22/63: A Novel – Stephen King
Siobhan gave this to me for my birthday. I was itching to start it. It took me about a week to plow through it. Fantastic, thrilling, and thought-provoking. Stephen King at his very very best. I also loved the brief cameos of two of the kids from It, during the main character’s stay in Derry. This book shows that King is dealing with life-or-death issues in his books in a way that authors with more serious reputations are not. King is dealing with mortality and change and grief and history, and Don DeLillo can only HOPE to reach the level of profundity that King reaches here. (I love Don DeLillo, but seriously I wanted to cut 100+ pages from Underworld – and that is not a good sign. He was straining for profundity – the sheer length of the book showed that strain). I think 11/22/63 is one of King’s best. I know most people say they like The Stand the best, but I consider It to be his masterpiece. 11/22/63 approaches that level. LOVED IT. It also made me cry.
26. The Finish: The Killing of Osama Bin Laden – Mark Bowden
Some cheerful reading over the blue Christmas I just had. I liked this book a lot, although I have no idea why maps and diagrams were not included. You really need them for such a book, where you’re talking about distances and Black Hawks and Chinooks refueling at a certain point, and compound locations, etc. Maybe they rushed the book to print.
27. Elvis Presley Calls His Mother After The Ed Sullivan Show – Samuel Charters.
A brilliant short novel of imaginative empathy.
It’s cold here in Memphis, about as cold as it is back on the East Coast. We had some brutal weather yesterday, snow, and then freezing rain and wind, and I was afraid my flight this morning might be delayed but we went out as scheduled. It’s good to be back. I love my room, and I’m already settling in. I have some time here, more than a couple of days or a long weekend, so I can actually let myself stretch out. I have a lot of down time.
This evening I took a walk around the downtown area, and then found my way over to a place called Confederate Park, which stands on a bluff overlooking the Mississippi. A big Civil War battle took place there, and I read all about it on the greened copper plaque, put up by the Daughters of the Confederacy in 1909. There’s a cannon, and a statue, but why I was there was the view of the glorious Mississippi. The sun setting beyond it. What a stunning body of water. The bluff stands in between the two bridges that span the Mississippi, going over to Arkansas. The air is cold. It’s pretty deserted right about now, although I imagine it’s going to get nuts on New Year’s Eve. I like where I am situated. Walking distance to a lot of stuff, although I have some road-trips planned.
Full moon tonight.
From Keith Richards’ wonderful Life:
I think the first record I bought was Little Richard’s “Long Tall Sally”. Fantastic record, even to this day. Good records just get better with age. But the one that really turned me on, like an explosion one night, listening to Radio Luxembourg on my little radio when I was supposed to be in bed and asleep, was “Heartbreak Hotel”. That was the stunner. I’d never heard it before, or anything like it. I’d never heard of Elvis before. It was almost as if I’d been waiting for it to happen. When I woke up the next day I was a different guy. Suddenly I was getting overwhelmed: Buddy Holly, Eddie Cochran, Little Richard, Fats. Radio Luxembourg was notoriously difficult to keep on station. I had a little aerial and walked round the room, holding the radio up to my ear and twisting the aerial. Trying to keep it down because I’d wake Mum and Dad up. If I could get the signal right, I could take the radio under the blankets on the bed and keep the aerial outside and twist it there. I’m supposed to be asleep; I’m supposed to be going to school in the morning. Loads of ads for James Walker, the jewelers “in every high street,” and the Irish sweepstakes, with which Radio Lux had some deal. The signal was perfect for the ads, “and now we have Fats Domino, ‘Blueberry Hill,'” and shit, then it would fade.
Then, “Since my baby left me” – it was just the sound. It was the last trigger. That was the first rock and roll I heard. It was a totally different way of delivering a song, a totally different sound, stripped down, burnt, no bullshit, no violins and ladies’ choruses and schmaltz, totally different. It was bare, right to the roots that you had a feeling were there but hadn’t yet heard. I’ve got to take my hat off to Elvis for that. The silence is your canvas, that’s your frame, that’s what you work on; don’t try and deafen it out. That’s what “Heartbreak Hotel” did to me. It was the first time I’d heard something so stark. Then I had to go back to what this cat had done before. Luckily I caught his name. The Radio Luxembourg signal came back in. “That was Elvis Presley, with ‘Heartbreak Hotel.'” Shit!
On the essays shelf:
The Crack-Up, by F. Scott Fitzgerald
The byline here is “F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald”, and the date is “May-June 1934”.
They got married in 1920. He was newly famous because of his first novel. They were both young and good-looking. They had more money than they knew what to do with. They spent the 1920s traveling, carousing, and having a hell of a time. They had a baby, and that slowed the pace for about a year or so. Fitzgerald published more, Zelda caused scenes, that were funny and shocking, and then not so funny. She aspired to be a writer, too. Fitzgerald often used her as inspiration in his own work, something that caused much resentment. She felt like he was stealing her best material, material that SHE could use in her OWN work. She did publish a couple of things, including reviews of some of her husband’s work (one in which she says in a smart-alecky tone that she recognizes some of the passages in her husband’s work from her own diaries. She concludes, “I suppose plagiarism begins at home.”) The press/public, who loved them as a couple, ate all of this up, but there were serious undertones. Zelda wasn’t just an unsung artist. She was mentally ill. This, of course, went undiagnosed for many years, and Fitzgerald could be a stabilizing influence on her. But eventually she “cracked up”, in 1929/1930. She became obsessed with ballet, and would dance for sometimes 8 hours a day. She began to have delusions. She was already too old to “make it” as a ballerina, but that did not stop her pursuit. She would dance for the guests, she would answer the door in her tutu. Some of the first-hand accounts of her around that time are heart-rending. Finally, she was put in an institution, she was analyzed by Jung, she was released. But from that point on, she was never really well. Finally, she was put in the institution in Asheville, where she would eventually die (when the institution burned down: she was in a locked ward. Horror.) Fitzgerald had died at the age of 40 eight years before. One can only imagine how she must have felt, locked away, hearing of her husband’s death, knowing that literally the only person on the planet who cared for her in the way that he did was gone … the only one who “had her back” … who kept her calm, who remembered her when … was now dead … The mind goes blank with the tragedy of it all.
Fitzgerald had ambivalent feelings about her writing. He encouraged her, and obviously felt she had a gift of expression (otherwise he wouldn’t have been inspired by her). But he also felt some professional jealousy as well as anxiety. He was the one who lived with her. He knew her lack of discipline. He knew how despairing she could get. He tried to prop her up, he set her up with contacts … but there was still the fact of the matter that she was his wife, and maybe he had some traditional ideas about that, after all? Who’s to say. What can be said is that while Zelda certainly did have a way with words, she lacked the gumption to keep at it when things got tough, something her husband had in spades. The pieces they wrote together (and there are two in this collection) are list-oriented. It’s like they act as Curators over their own Relationship. This becomes explicit in the next essay in the collection, but here in “Show Mr and Mrs. F –“, its a long long LONG list of places they stayed over a 14-year period of time.
While there is very little introspective pontificating here (not too much “we felt” or “we thought”), this is a deeply introspective piece. It has the Fitzgerald stamp of elegy and nostalgia, a sense that he is looking back on his youth from a great and sad distance (and he wasn’t, he was only in his 30s!), and that far too much had happened for him to ever re-capture insouciant joy. It’s haunting. The long list of places, Pisa, Venice, Paris, Monte Carlo, starts to sound manic after a time. It is impossible to read this essay and not think at one point, “What the devil are you two running from?”
At first it seems hopelessly glamorous and fun. To them as well. But as the piece goes on, the imagery starts changing. There’s a strain of unease. A minor key playing in the distance. They both seem to feel it as well (although I assume that Scott wrote the majority of this). The hotels starts to get dingier. There are ominous signs of poor weather. Why can’t these two sit still, for two seconds? They cannot.
On the surface, ‘Show Mr. and Mrs. F–‘ is a list of hotels in the hot spots of the American ex-pat community in the heyday of the 1920s. Underneath is the rupture of a culture, the rupture of calm, peace. Deep undercurrents swirl, never named. I find the piece quite disturbing.
Here’s just one excerpt.
The Crack-Up, ‘Show Mr. and Mrs F –’, by F. Scott Fitzgerald
1929
We went to America but didn’t stay at hotels. When we got back to Europe we spent the first night at a sun-flushed hostelry, Bertolini’s in Genoa. There was a green tile bath and a very attentive valet de chambre and there was ballet to practice, using the brass bedstead as a bar. It was good to see the brilliant flowers colliding in prismatic explosions over the terraced hillside and to feel ourselves foreigners again.
Reaching Nice, we went economically to the Beau Rivage, which offered many stained glass windows to the Mediterranean glare. It was spring and was brittly cold along the Promenade des Anglais, though the crowds moved persistently in a summer tempo. We admired the painted windows of the converted palaces on the Place Gambetta. Walking at dusk, the voices fell seductively through the nebulous twilight inviting us to share the first stars, but we were busy. We went to the cheap ballets of the Casino on the jettee and rode almost to Villefranche for Salade Nicoise and a very special bouillabaisse.
In Paris we economized again in a not-yet-dried cement hotel, the name of which we’ve forgotten. It cost us a good deal, for we ate out every night to avoid starchy table d’hotes. Sylvia Beach invited us to dinner and the talk was all of the people who had discovered Joyce; we called on friends in better hotels: Zoe Akins, who had sought the picturesque of the open fires at Foyot’s, and Esther at the Port-Royal, who took us to see Romaine Brooks’ studio, a glass enclosed square of heaven swung high above Paris.
Then southward again, and wasting the dinner hour in an argument about which hotel: there was one in Beaune where Ernest Hemingway had liked the trout. Finally we decided to drive all night, and we ate well in a stable courtyard facing a canal—the green-white glare of Provence had already begun to dazzle us so that we didn’t care whether the food was good or not. That night we stopped under the white-trunked trees to open the windshield to the moon and to the sweep of the south against our faces, and to better smell the fragrance rustling restlessly amidst the poplars.
At Frejus Plage, they had built a new hotel, a barren structure facing the beach where the sailors bathe. We felt very superior remembering how we had been the first travellers to like the place in summer.
After the swimming at Cannes was over and the year’s octopi had grown up in the crevices of the rocks, we started back to Paris. The night of the stock-market crash we stayed at the Beau Ravage in St. Raphael in the room Ring Lardner had occupied another year. We got out as soon as we could because we had been there so many times before—it is sadder to find the past again and find it inadequate to the present than it is to have it elude you and remain forever a harmonious conception of memory.
At the Jules Cesar in Aries we had a room that had once been a chapel. Following the festering waters of a stagnant canal we came to the ruins of a Roman dwelling-house. There was a blacksmith shop installed behind the proud columns and a few scattered cows ate the gold flowers off the meadow.
Then up and up; the twilit heavens expanded in the Cevennes valley, cracking the mountains apart, and there was a fearsome loneliness brooding on the flat tops. We crunched chestnut burrs on the road and aromatic smoke wound out of the mountain cottages. The Inn looked bad, the floors were covered with sawdust, but they gave us the best pheasant we ever ate and the best sausage, and the feather-beds were wonderful.
In Vichy, the leaves had covered the square about the wooden bandstand. Health advice was printed on the doors at the Hotel du Parc and on the menu, but the salon was filled with people drinking champagne. We loved the massive trees in Vichy and the way the friendly town nestles in a hollow.
By the time we got to Tours, we had begun to feel like Cardinal Balue in his cage in the little Renault. The Hotel de l’Univers was equally stuffy but after dinner we found a cafe crowded with people playing checkers and singing choruses and we felt we could go on to Paris after all.
Our cheap hotel in Paris had been turned into a girls’ school—we went to a nameless one in the Rue du Bac, where potted palms withered in the exhausted air. Through the thin partitions we witnessed the private lives and natural functions of our neighbors. We walked at night past the moulded columns of the Odeon and identified the gangrenous statue behind the Luxembourg fence as Catherine de Medici.
It was a trying winter and to forget bad times we went to Algiers. The Hotel de l’Oasis was laced together by Moorish grills; and the bar was an outpost of civilization with people accentuating their eccentricities. Beggars in white sheets were propped against the walls, and the dash of colonial uniforms gave the cafes a desperate swashbuckling air. Berbers have plaintive trusting eyes but it is really Fate they trust.
In Bou Saada, the scent of amber was swept along the streets by wide desert cloaks. We watched the moon stumble over the sand hillocks in a dead white glow and believed the guide as he told us of a priest he knew who could wreck railroad trains by wishing. The Ouled Nails were very brown and clean-cut girls, impersonal as they turned themselves into fitting instruments for sex by the ritual of their dance, jangling their gold to the tune of savage fidelities hid in the distant hills.
The world crumbled to pieces in Biskra; the streets crept through the town like streams of hot white lava. Arabs sold nougat and cakes of poisonous pink under the flare of open gas jets. Since The Garden of Allah and The Sheik the town has been filled with frustrate women. In the steep cobbled alleys we flinched at the brightness of mutton carcases swung from the butchers’ booths.
We stopped in El Kantara at a rambling inn whiskered with wistaria. Purple dusk steamed up from the depths of a gorge and we walked to a painter’s house, where, in the remoteness of those mountains, he worked at imitations of Meissonier.
Then Switzerland and another life. Spring bloomed in the gardens of the Grand Hotel in Glion, and a panorama world scintillated in the mountain air. The sun steamed delicate blossoms loose from the rocks while far below glinted the lake of Geneva.
Beyond the balustrade of the Lausanne Palace, sailboats plume themselves in the breeze like birds. Willow trees weave lacy patterns on the gravel terrace. The people are chic fugitives from life and death, rattling their teacups in querulous emotion on the deep protective balcony. They spell the names of hotels and cities with flowerbeds and laburnum in Switzerland and even the street lights wore crowns of verbena.
On the essays shelf:
The Crack-Up, by F. Scott Fitzgerald
One of my favorite essays about New York City, up there with Joan Didion’s “Goodbye to All That” and E.B. White’s “Here Is New York”. F. Scott Fitzgerald was from St. Paul, Minnesota, and he went to school in Princeton, New Jersey, and yet, very young, he became a symbol for the possibilities in cosmopolitan New York. I imagine that there are still people today who would be surprised to learn that Fitzgerald was a Midwesterner. It is often the “outsiders” who can really help us see a landscape. Joan Didion was from California, for example. And to those who move to New York to chase a dream, as Didion did (well, she had a job, too), as Fitzgerald did … New York is different than to those who grew up here. It is a symbol, a mirage (on bad days), a glimmering backdrop on which we project our dreams and hopes. It’s that kind of place. It can build us up, it can let us down. It is eternal. If you come here when you are young, as most people do, it can break your heart in a million pieces. It opens doors, it slams them in your face. The city is so gigantic and insistent that you must be in relationship to IT at all times. It’s hard to describe to someone who hasn’t lived here (which is why I so appreciate essays like the ones I name-checked here. If anyone is curious, I can point to Didion’s essay, or ‘My Lost City’ and say: “There. That’s what it’s like.”) New York is also something you take for granted, once you are immersed in it, once you spend the majority of your time here. It’s always fun to show people around who have never visited, or who are unfamiliar … because it can help me see this city in a new way. I remember when I first moved here, I would have an almost physical sensation of sudden relaxation/deflation-of-stress when I would take the PATH back over to the Jersey side. I would walk up the PATH steps and almost physically collapse in relaxation. That’s how much the stress of just living here, day to day, was for me at the beginning – and remember, I had come from Chicago to New York, I had lived in Los Angeles, I had lived in Philadelphia and Boston before that. I was not unfamiliar with city life. But New York … New York demands a lot of you, in a way that is unique. The air has energy. It is demanding, in that respect. I’m now so used to it I barely notice it, although on days when I am tired or heartsick or struggling, I certainly yearn to flee, which is why I get away so much and hole up in beach motels whenever I can.
In this essay, written in 1932, Fitzgerald covers the same territory that he covered in ‘Echoes of the Jazz Age’: the decade of the 20s. He describes his first view of New York, from the ferry from Jersey, and his first awe-struck trips there, seeing shows, and coming in from Princeton, and being amazed by the sheer size, scope, breadth of the place. He describes going to a party at the apartment of someone who had gone to Princeton, and how incredible it was to go into someone’s home, to get behind the facade of New York, to really see how people live. This is still true in New York, although you get a bit more used to it the longer you live here. New York seems so daunting sometimes, and it’s so hard to just flat out LIVE here, that questions like, “How much do you pay rent?” are not at all considered rude here: it’s a valid question, based on curiosity (“How do YOU manage?”), and it’s all a mystery how anyone gets along at all. F. Scott Fitzgerald, writing about a much cheaper time in New York, really gets that. He writes about his different times in New York: being there, briefly, when he was an anonymous young man … then coming back after the publication of his first novel, which made him famous, and suddenly all of the doors of the city flung open to him. Then, as the 20s progressed, the mania grew. When the crash came, Fitzgerald was in Africa, and he describes hearing it, dimly, from there. Returning to New York after that was like visiting a tomb. The boil had been lanced. People were chastened, back to normal.
As always, with Fitzgerald, he is writing about youth. Nostalgia for youth, but more than that; nostalgia for hope and idealism, the best parts of ourselves. How to gain experience in this world without sacrificing your idealism, your hope. Is it at all possible? (I have not, personally, found it possible. YMMV. Perhaps that is why I find Fitzgerald almost unbearably poignant.)
Here, he talks about his first “time” in New York, a period that lasted about 6 months (before he was famous).
The Crack-Up, ‘My Lost City’, by F. Scott Fitzgerald
When I got back to New York in 1919 I was so entangled in life that a period of mellow monasticism in Washington Square was not to be dreamed of. The thing was to make enough money in the advertising business to rent a stuffy apartment for two in the Bronx. The girl concerned had never seen New York but she was wise enough to be rather reluctant. And in a haze of anxiety and unhappiness I passed the four most impressionable months of my life.
New York had all the iridescence of the beginning of the world. The returning troops marched up Fifth Avenue and girls were instinctively drawn East and North tower them – this was the greatest nation and there was gala in the air. As I hovered ghost-like in the Plaza Red Room of a Saturday afternoon, or went to lush and liquid garden parties in the East Sixties or tippled with Princetonians in the Biltmore Bar I was haunted always by my other life – my drab room in the Bronx, my square foot of the subway, my fixation upon the day’s letter from Alabama – would it come and what would it say? – my shabby suits, my poverty, and love. While my friends were launching decently into life I had muscled my inadequate bark into midstream. The gilded youth circling around young Constance Bennett in the Club de Vingt, the classmates in the Yale-Princeton Club whooping up our first after-the-war reunion, the atmosphere of the millionaires’ houses that I sometimes frequented — these things were empty for me, though I recognized them as impressive scenery and regretted that I was committed to other romance. The most hilarious luncheon table or the most moony cabaret — it was all the same; from them I returned eagerly to my home on Claremont Avenue – home because there might be a letter waiting outside the door. One by one my great dreams of New York became tainted. The remembered charm of Bunny’s apartment faded with the rest when I interviewed a blowsy landlady in Greenwich Village. She told me I could bring girls to the room, and the idea filled me with dismay — why should I want to bring girls to my room? — I had a girl. I wandered through the town of 127th Street, resenting its vibrant life; or else I bought cheap theatre seats at Gray’s drugstore and tried to lose myself for a few hours in my old passion for Broadway. I was a failure – mediocre at advertising work and unable to get started as a writer. Hating the city, I got roaring, weeping drunk on my last penny and went home….
. . . Incalculable city. What ensued was only one of a thousand success stories of those gaudy days, but it plays a part in my own movie of New York. When I returned six months later the offices of editors and publishers were open to me, impresarios begged plays, the movies panted for screen material. To my bewilderment, I was adopted, not as a Middle Westerner, not even as a detached observer, but as the archetype of what New York wanted. This statement requires some account of the metropolis in 1920.
There was already the tall white city of today, already the feverish activity of the boom, but there was a general inarticulateness. As much as anyone the columnist F.P.A. guessed the pulse of the individual crowd, but shyly, as one watching from a window. Society and the native arts had not mingled – Ellen Mackay was not yet married to Irving Berlin. Many of Peter Arno’s people would have been meaningless to the citizen of 1920, and save for F.P.A.’s column there was no forum for metropolitan urbanity.
Then, for just a moment, the ‘younger generation’ idea became a fusion of many elements in New York life. People of fifty might pretend there was still a four hundred, or Maxwell Bodenheim might pretend there was a Bohemia worth its paint and pencils – but the blending of the bright, gay, vigorous elements began then, and for the first time there appeared a society a little livelier than the solid mahogany dinner parties of Emily Price Post. If this society produced the cocktail party, it also evolved Park Avenue wit, and for the first time an educated European could envisage a trip to New York as something more amusing than a gold-trek into a formalized Australian Bush.
For just a moment, before it was demonstrated that I was unable to play the role, I, who knew less of New York than any reporter of six months’ standing and less of its society than any hall-room boy in a Ritz stag line, was pushed into the position not only of spokesman for the time but of the typical product of that same moment. I, or rather it was ‘we’ now, did not know exactly what New York expected of us and found it rather confusing. Within a few months after our embarkation on the Metropolitan venture we scarcely knew any more who we were and we hadn’t a notion what we were. A dive into a civic fountain, a casual brush with the law, was enough to get us into the gossip columns, and we were quoted on a variety of subjects we knew nothing about. Actually our ‘contacts’ included half a dozen unmarried college friends and a few new literary acquaintances – I remember a lonesome Christmas when we had not one friend in the city, nor one house we could go to. Finding no nucleus to which we could cling, we became a small nucleus ourselves and gradually we fitted our disruptive personalities into the contemporary scene of New York. Or rather New York forgot us and let us stay.
On the essays shelf:
The Crack-Up, by F. Scott Fitzgerald
My friend De sent me this book years ago. It was such a thoughtful gift. Published in 1945, shortly after Fitzgerald’s untimely death, it was edited by his great friend Edmund Wilson. A couple of these pieces had already been published in Esquire (including, famously, the title essay, which caused a great deal of controversy: an author writing so openly about a nervous breakdown, or a “crack-up”, which is a term I prefer) There are also included in the compilation some unpublished letters, as well as pages and pages from F. Scott Fitzgerald’s writer’s notebook, where he jotted down ideas, images, quotes. It’s a marvelous compilation. It took me years to finally read it. Occasionally I’d pick it up but then put it back down. F. Scott Fitzgerald is very intense for me. I have to be in a certain mood. I randomly picked it up in 2009, a year of my own crack-up, and read a couple of essays, wrote a couple of rambling posts here about it, which are distressing to me to read now, I am so clearly not well, and then put it down out of self-preservation. I wasn’t ready to read it. It was too perfectly expressive of exactly where I was at. Sometimes you need that, and sometimes you do NOT.
I finally read The Crack-Up in 2010. I’ve since used it as reference for other things more time than I can count, even my Elvis stuff (one essay in particular). These are famous essays, quoted all the time, some of his most famous lines, and it’s very very powerful to read the entire book in one sitting. I had a couple of moments where a familiar line would pop off the page and I’d think, “Oh, so THAT is where that came from.”
Fitzgerald’s journey is well-known. He was only 24 years old when his first novel, This Side of Paradise, was published. He had started it while he was a college student. It was a smash hit. It is the kind of thing you want to happen to you, taking the world by storm your first time out of the gate. He not only explained the zeitgeist of the Jazz Age, he helped to actually create it. You could not imagine a more fortuitous and promising beginning. He made a ton of money, married Zelda, the Alabama girl of his dreams, and together they embodied the youthful carelessness so prized during the time he was writing. The pressure on him, to follow up, had to be enormous (and he does write about this very eloquently in one of my favorite essays in the collection, called ‘Early Success’.) He wasn’t just another writer. He was the Voice of a Generation. Not too much pressure there, eh?
He followed up This Side of Paradise with The Beautiful and Damned in 1922. It was first serialized in a magazine, and then came out as a book. He had been given a large advance, based on how well This Side of Paradise had sold. The Beautiful and Damned (based on his relationship with Zelda, he even quotes her word for word in it) also sold well, although it didn’t go off like the bomb that was This Side of Paradise. This is one of the pitfalls of “early success”, but we’ll get to that when we get to that essay. Meanwhile, he and Zelda were traipsing the world, being controversial and fabulous, symbols of the time. They had a baby in 1921, and traveled to Paris, and everywhere else, with the baby. He was a huge part of the American ex-pat community in Paris of the 1920s (so beautifully imagined in Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris). Prohibition was on, which meant everyone drank, all the time, and Fitzgerald was a big drinker. After Beautiful and Damned, he had an idea for another book, a short quick elegiac look at a kind of America that was dying, that he could see dying, but also a book about nostalgia and lost youth, something that (although he was young himself) – he seemed to have an inside-track of understanding. The result was The Great Gatsby
, published in 1925. The book was not a financial success, and it wasn’t a critical success, either, something that is hard to believe today. It was a crushing blow to poor Fitzgerald, who had poured his heart into the book. He could not understand it. It was heartbreaking. The Great Gatsby would not take its place in the American canon until after Fitzgerald’s death, something I find very upsetting. He died thinking he would be forgotten. That was a valid worry to have, if you look at the “fall” in critical approbation that he experienced. He could have no way of knowing that his first “failure”, The Great Gatsby, would become the book he was most known for.
After The Great Gatsby, there is almost a 10-year gap before his next novel, Tender Is the Night. That gap says it all. Of course, at the time, he was also keeping himself solvent by writing short stories (they paid very well), and three short story collections came out in the 20s. These helped pay the bills, helped keep him and Zelda afloat. They were always running from debt, however. It was the 1920s, I suppose everyone lived beyond their means. Fitzgerald was not happy about what was happening to his work. He would sell his stuff to Hollywood, he was paid well for short stories, but he referred to it all as “whoring”. When all is said and done, only the giant success of his first novel justified/paid for the extravagant lifestyle he became accustomed to with Zelda. The two of them lived off of that, primarily: that’s how well that first book sold. Amazing.
Zelda had her first crack-up in 1930. Worrying about her and finding proper treatment for her took up all of Fitzgerald’s time and heart-space. He was out of his mind with worry. Finally, in 1935, out came Tender Is the Night. It did not go well for Fitzgerald. Critics seemed put off by it, they didn’t like it. The public, who had been waiting for word from Fitzgerald for almost 10 years (he was that kind of writer: very important to his generation), had a lukewarm reaction. The Jazz Age author not translating into Depression-era concerns? There are myriad reasons why that book (which has, of course, found its audience as well, along with Gatsby) didn’t go well. Fitzgerald wrote it under duress. To make money, he de-camped to Hollywood, and wrote screenplays. This helped him financially but I think it was ruinous to his soul and spirit. It hurts to read his letters from that time. He was in a wilderness. Lost. He had nothing to hold onto. His wife was institutionalized. His drinking escalated. It’s just tragic. He wasn’t even 40 years old yet and he had a couple of heart attacks.
His time in Hollywood gave him the idea for another book, which he worked on when he could (his health was not good, he was often drunk and ill). This would be The Last Tycoon, and when he died in 1940 it remained unfinished, but it was brought out after his death in 1941. It’s a great book, one of the best books about Hollywood in existence. It was a fantastic topic for Fitzgerald, whose stuff always trucked in dreams, myths, and the American dream-space of itself – all of these things which is also the territory of cinema – and it’s just too damn bad what happened to this guy. It’s just too damn bad.
The Crack-Up gives us insight into what all of this was like for him, and in that we owe Edmund Wilson a great debt. It is superbly curated and edited. It’s essential reading, not only for any Fitzgerald fan, but for anyone interested in American culture.
I came to love Fitzgerald early. I was about 15 when I first read The Great Gatsby, went wild for it, and then read every single thing I could get my hands on, every short story, every novel, biographies, everything – I had torn through most of his ouevre by the time I was 16. I had been obsessed with flappers since I was 9, 10 years old. I loved that whole era. I wrote a paper in 8th grade on the 1920s and did a lot of research. Part of this was because of Bugsy Malone, which I saw when I was 10 or 11. There was also a TV series on when I was in high school called Gangsters, which took place in the 1920s, and totally satisfied my need to go back to that time and live it out. I wrote a novel when I was 12 about flappers and teenage Ziegfeld girls. I meant business. Fitzgerald, with his unforgettable prose, helped me to step back in time. That’s one of the best things about great literature – for kids, certainly, because it gives you perspective on a time other than your own – and also for adults, obviously. Fitzgerald had that rare ability, which is why his first book garnered such extraordinary success: He was able to look around him, at the culture he was a part of, and name it, call it out, see not only the trends, but the underlying meaning and themes. He could sense it. He was young to sense it. But he had that gift. The gift of sight. It is easy to look back on an era, from some distance, and pontificate, “Yes. That was what was going on at that time. I see it so clearly.” But to be able to do that from within the actual moment …. very few writers can do that. Hell, very few people can do that. It requires a certain brand of sensitivity, a certain acute sense of perception, a feel for the upheavals beneath the surface of a culture. It is easy to rattle off trends. But not as easy to examine why such trends emerged, and what the hell was happening in an entire culture during a certain moment in time.
While we certainly have many wonderful writers writing today, I can’t think of too many who are able to look, see, name … the moment in time in which they are writing from. It’s a short list. David Foster Wallace should be on it. I’d put Dave Eggers on there, too. Joshua Ferris’ extraordinary first novel, Then We Came to the End: A Novel (some thoughts here), is a unique book, the Office Space of literature, and it expresses something about our current culture that nobody else, no, nobody, has captured yet. It’s an eerie experience reading that book, because it mostly takes part in the more high-flying early 2000’s, before the crash of 2008. Ferris examines office culture in a way that is unparalleled, second only to Joseph Heller’s Something Happened
. I got that creepy-crawly feeling on my neck as I read Ferris’ book. Here, here, is an author who is actually writing about “how we live now”, in a way that is fresh and new, in a way that OWNS the territory. I highly recommend it if you haven’t read it. Interestingly enough, it is already a historical piece. It is already out of date. Similar to Fitzgerald’s first two novels, which were practically “ancient history” during the rough and dirty Depression years. But, he was able to sit in that high-flying manic moment, and diagnose our culture, so that we have it for all time. Pretty extraordinary.
This is a perfect segue to the first essay in The Crack-Up, which is called “Echoes of the Jazz Age”. Fitzgerald wrote it in 1931. The 20s, which came to a crash ending in 1929, were only two years in the past. Those good old days ended with an alarming swiftness. Fitzgerald’s essay looks at the trends in the culture, what helped create the Jazz Age, what jazz itself signifies, and what it felt like to be in your 20s during the 20s. What did it mean? What was really going on? Of course it was about sex. Fitzgerald examines that, and talks about the automobile, and how people having their own cars suddenly made “petting” a commonplace thing, that everyone did, and everyone talked about doing … and how, as with all youthful cultural revolutions, the Jazz Age began to turn when middle-aged people started hopping on the bandwagon. Fitzgerald doesn’t just see: he diagnoses. His conclusions are quite brutal.
It’s an extraordinary essay of insight and detail. He is writing from the trenches. He writes personally. Fitzgerald couldn’t write impersonally if he tried. And what a masterstroke: to include Lindbergh here, to not even name him (because you wouldn’t have to), but to understand that while the Jazz Babies were doing their thing and causing much hand-wringing, there were other Americans doing other things … perhaps not so silly, not so transitory. His words on Lindbergh are quoted all the time, and small wonder. Look at that paragraph. Masterpiece.
Here is an excerpt.
The Crack-Up, ‘Echoes of the Jazz Age’, by F. Scott Fitzgerald
By 1927 a wide-spread neurosis began to be evident, faintly signalled, like a nervous beating of the feet, by the popularity of cross-word puzzles. I remember a fellow ex-patriate opening a letter from a mutual friend of ours, urging him to come home and be revitalized by the hardy, bracing qualities of the native soil. It was a strong letter and it affected us both deeply, until we noticed that it was headed from a nerve sanitarium in Pennsylvania.
By this time contemporaries of mine had begun to disappear into the dark maw of violence. A classmate killed his wife and himself on Long Island, another tumbled “accidentally” from a skyscraper in Philadelphia, another purposefully from a skyscraper in New York. One was killed in a speak-easy in Chicago; another was beaten to death in a speak-easy in New York and crawled home to the Princeton Club to die; still another had his skull crushed by a maniac’s axe in an insane asylum where he was confined. These are not catastrophes that I went out of my way to look for – these were my friends; moreover, these things happened not during the depression but during the boom.
In the spring of ’27, something bright and alien flashed across the sky. A young Minnesotan who seemed to have had nothing to do with his generation did a heroic thing, and for a moment people set down their glasses in country clubs and speakeasies and thought of their old best dreams. Maybe there was a way out by flying, maybe our restless blood could find frontiers in the illimitable air. But by that time we were all pretty well committed; and the Jazz Age continued; we would all have one more.
Nevertheless, Americans were wandering ever more widely – friends seemed eternally bound for Russia, Persia, Abyssinia and Central Africa. And by 1928 Paris had grown suffocating. With each new shipment of Americans spewed up by the boom the quality fell off, until toward the end there was something sinister abut the crazy boatloads. They were no longer the simple pa and ma and son and daughter, infinitely superior in their qualities of kindness and curiosity to the corresponding class in Europe, but fantastic neanderthals who believed something, something vague, that you remembered from a very cheap novel. I remember an Italian on a steamer who promenaded the deck in an American Reserve Officer’s uniform picking quarrels in broken English with Americans who criticised their own institutions in the bar. I remember a fat Jewess, inlaid with diamonds, who sat behind us at the Russian ballet and said as the curtain rose, “That’s luffly, dey ought to baint a bicture of it.” This was low comedy, but it was evident that money and power were falling into the hands of people in comparison with whom the leader of a village Soviet would be a gold-mine of judgment and culture. There were citizens travelling in luxury in 1928 and 1929 who, in the distortion of their new condition, had the human value of Pekinese, bivalves, cretins, goats. I remember the Judge from some New York district who had taken his daughter to see the Bayeux Tapestries and made a scene in the papers advocating their segregation because one scene was immoral. But in those days life was like the race in Alice in Wonderland, there was a prize for every one.
The Jazz Age had had a wild youth and a heady middle-age. There was the phase of the necking parties, the Leopold-Loeb murder (I remember the time my wife was arrested on Queensborough Bridge on the suspicion of being the “Bob-haired Bandit”) and the John Held Clothes. In the second phase such phenomena as sex and murder became more mature, if much more conventional. Middle age must be served and pajamas came to the beach to save fat thighs and flabby calves from competition with the one-piece bathing-suit. Finally skirts came down and everything was concealed. Everybody was at scratch now. Let’s go –
But it was not to be. Somebody had blundered and the most expensive orgy in history was over.
On the essays shelf:
Ex Libris: Confessions of a Common Reader, by Anne Fadiman
What a strangely moving and illuminating essay. It’s really about how to organize your book collection, in a way that does not overwhelm your environs – this is naturally a topic I have a lot of interest in, since I generally live in small apartments and have (I have not counted) about 3,000 books. What to do, what to do. I am not a hoarder by nature. I like organization. I need my ducks in a row. I am not the neatest person on the planet, I can deal with a fair amount of clutter – but my books are always organized. I can, just like my father did, reach up onto any given shelf and pull down exactly the book I was looking for, for a quote, a reference, an idea, and it takes me no time at all to find said book. This is the whole POINT of having a proper library. The other day, right before I went to see Lincoln, I thought, “Lemme just read The Gettysburg Address again, to prepare.” Of course I could just look it up online, but that is no fun at all, and not at all the person I am. So I went to the top shelf of my barrister bookcase (one of the only pieces of furniture, besides my bed, that I treasure), where I have all of my Library of America volumes. My father used to give all of us an LOA volume for Christmas. I have Eudora Welty, Willa Cather, Eugene O’Neill. Then, on my own, I went and bought all the Founding Fathers volumes I need. Not want. Need. (You can see the LOA shelf here in this post.) I need to be able to look up a certain letter of George Washington’s at a moment’s notice. Not even an option to not have that stuff at my fingertips. So I pulled out my Lincoln LOA, found the Gettysburg Address, and read it. Filled with pleasure – not just at his words (and there are so few of them, it always surprises me how short the Gettysburg Address is), but at my own awesomeness at having it available when I want it. This is why I have a library, not just a bunch of books, and this is why I devote a good amount of time to organization. This is an ongoing process, by the way. Recently, I went through the biggest purge I’ve been through in years. This was in August/September. I donated four bags of clothing/shoes to a local Goodwill. I donated seven boxes of books to a local second-hand shop. (It’s a hippie-dippie place that hosts drum circles, and I like them very much, but it does amuse me to drop off all of my right-wing-ish war books there.) Seven boxes donated! I guess I suddenly felt like there was a lot of dead weight in my library, books I will never read again, books I didn’t even really care for, but they had traveled with me from apartment to apartment through the years, and I didn’t question the book’s presence on my shelves. Once the purge began, it was hard to stop. I already regret one thing. I have no idea why I donated Hilary Mantel’s Wolf Hall, a book I have been dying to read, and actually got the hankering to start it a couple weeks ago. I have owned it ever since it came out, and I guess it was a casualty of my ruthless mindset during the purge: “Haven’t read it yet? THROW IT OUT.” But for the most part, I am very happy with how much I donated, mainly because it created so much space that I can fill up again. With books.
If you’re like me, then you understand. If books don’t mean to you what they clearly mean to me, all of this will sound a bit nuts. I’m okay with that. I grew up in a house filled with books. Books were everywhere, nicely organized and displayed, but everywhere. All of my siblings are the same way. Tooooo many books.
Fadiman’s essay opens with a description of a slim 29-page book called On Books and the Housing of Them. She found it in a secondhand bookstore, and has always been drawn to books about books. Because it is only 29 pages long, it keeps getting lost on her shelves. She never gave it much thought. It was by a gentleman named “Gladstone”. Fadiman thought to herself, “Surely it couldn’t be THAT Gladstone …” But it was. William Gladstone, four times Prime Minister of England, was not just a book collector. He was an obsessive, he had rooms and rooms of books, and spent much time thinking about how to organize them, how to display them – how to optimize your space in order to fill it with the highest number possible of books. Fadiman writes that she believes that this ongoing passion of Gladstone’s (compulsive organizing, compulsive measuring and calculating) saved him from “paralyzing stress”. Perhaps only an obsessive would understand that. It sounds so high maintenance: measuring a room and experimenting with different ways to organize books. But to an obsessive-compulsive, this is a deeply relaxing and necessary activity.
The essay is a humorous review of Gladstone’s 29-page book (a pamphlet, really), and a contemplation on the need us book collectors have to stay on top of things otherwise we will be OVERRUN by books.
Ex Libris: Confessions of a Common Reader, ‘The P.M.’s Empire of Books’, by Anne Fadiman
The theme of On Books and the Housing of Them was simple: too many books, too little space. The problem, said Gladstone, could be solved by a shelving system that might “prevent the population of Great Britain from being extruded some centuries hence into the surrounding waters by the exorbitant dimensions of their own libraries”. This observation was simultaneously facetious and earnest. Gladstone had a Scotsman’s natural parsimony. His diary, which he began at fifteen and abandoned at eighty-five after he was blinded by cataracts, often detailed his days down to fifteen-minute intervals: it was, in his words, “an account-book of the all-precious gift of Time.” Just as his father, a canny businessman, never squandered a penny, so Gladstone never squandered a minute. James Graham, who served in the cabinet with Gladstone in the 1840s, marveled that he “could do in four hours what it took any other man sixteen to do and … he worked sixteen hours a day.” If he stuffed into a day what would take another man a week, it was only reasonable that he should wish to stuff into a single room enough books to fill another man’s house.
Here was the plan: “First, the shelves must, as a rule, be fixed; secondly, the cases, or a large part of them, should have their side against the wall, and thus, projecting into the room for a convenient distance, they should be of twice the depth needed for a single line of books, and should hold two lines, one facing each way.” This was just a warm-up. It took several thousand more words to fill in the details. Gladstone’s parsimony did not extend to his verbiage. As a parliamentary orator, he was, according to Disraeli, “inebriated with the exuberance of his own verbosity,” and as a writer, he may be the only man in history to have written a long-winded twenty-nine-page book. The bookshelves that projected at right angles into the library, he declared, “should each have attached to them what I rudely term an endpiece (for want of a better name), that is, a shallow and extremely light adhering bookcase (light by reason of the shortness of the shelves), which both increases the accommodation, and makes one short side as well as the two long ones of the parallelopiped to present simply a face of books with the lines of shelf, like threads, running between the rows.”
One can see why, during at 1884 cabinet meeting, Joseph Chamberlain, the president of the Board of Trade, composed this premature epitaph for the world’s most anal-retentive statesman and handed it across the table to another cabinet member:
Here lies Mr. G., who has left us repining,
While he is, no doubt, still engaged in refining;
And explaining distinctions to Peter and Paul,
Who faintly protest that distinctions so small
Were never submitted to saints to perplex them,
Until the Prime Minister came up to vex them.
Mr. G. calculated that a library twenty by forty feet, with projecting bookcases three feet long, twelve inches deep, and nine feet high (“so that the upper shelf can be reached by the aid of a wooden stool of two steps not more than twenty inches high”), would accommodate between eighteen thousand and twenty thousand volumes. I trust his arithmetic. He had, after all, been Chancellor of the Exchequer. This shelving plan would suffice for the home of an ordinary gentleman, but for cases of extreme book-crowding, he proposed a more radical scheme in which “nearly two-thirds, or say three-fifths, of the whole cubic contents of a properly constructed apartment may be made a nearly solid mass of books.” It was detailed in a footnote so extraordinary it bears quoting nearly in full:
Let us suppose a room 28 feet by 10, and a little over 9 feet high. Divide this longitudinally for a passage 4 feet wide. Let the passage project 12 to 18 inches at each end beyond the line of the wall. Let the passage ends be entirely given to either window or glass door. Twenty-four pairs of trams run across the room. On them are placed 56 bookcases, divided by the passage, reaching to the ceiling, each 3 feet broad, 12 inches deep, and separated from its neighbors by an interval of 2 inches, and set on small wheels, pulleys, or rollers, to work along the trams. Strong handles on the inner side of each bookcase to draw it out into the passage. Each of these bookcases would hold 400 octavos; and a room of 28 feet by 10 would receive 25,000 volumes. A room of 40 feet by 20 (no great size) would receive 60,000.
The system of rolling shelves that Gladstone invented here is used today in the Bodleian Library’s Radcliffe Camera and at The New York Times Book Review, among many other places. Like its author’s life, it contained not a wasted cubic inch.